You could imagine my surprise when my Sunday breakfast meeting with a Denver-based friend took me to the delicious Denver Biscuit Company. Located inside a large corner space on Colfax called the Atomic Cowboy, this beer joint houses a two-business collective that also includes Fat Sully’s New York Pizza, another pizza place on my Thrillist list of targets. (Sully’s also has two other Denver locations and a slice truck.)
So later that day, I made a return visit to the Cowboy after it made its midday transition from biscuits to slices. My Uber trip was made special when my driver commented on my destination of Fat Sully’s. He said “It’s OK, unless you’re a critic!” No offense was taken. I outed myself as the Snob and pontificated that pizza doesn’t need gold truffles on it to be great!
It was still a beautiful spring afternoon when I made it to Sully’s so I decided to do my biz 100% al fresco. Ordering at the outside window, there was a good selection of outdoor seating available. From the window, I had full view of the busy kitchen inside and wondered where all these pizzas would be going. There was no one else outside, all and things looked rather slow inside the Cowboy. Assuming it was take out activity, I gradually got antsy as my cheese slice (a pricey $3.50) took a long time to prepare, and no one seemed the least bit sympathetic to my wait. How could a window like this not have some slices ready?
She finally arrived, and as I now took for granted, was made in the long and lean Denver Slice cut. Looking mighty handsome, I immediately detected a dark and richer tomato sauce that would ultimately serve to make this my favorite slice in the Mile High City.
Like the others I have had here in Denver so far, it was thin, economical and light. The rich toasted flavor of the tomato sauce was outstanding! Blended perfectly with the light delicious cheese, the oil content along with the other ingredients just hit that magic sweet spot. Light on the stomach, this was a slice ready to put on repeat order. One just isn’t enough.
I ate my lengthy crisp slice with a long fold all the way from tip to end crust. Ultra-thin at the tip, the pizza bones on the end of Sully’s slice were however a bit larger than usual and had some dry, brittle and tasteless spots that were just dead. Nonetheless, everything else about this slice was so good that this didn’t matter in the least.
Sully’s is open late night and is a must stop for any pizza lover. What an enjoyably satisfying slice. And the biscuit dishes in the morning were darn good as well. The Cowboy rules!
PIZZA SNOB RATING ***** Sets the Standard
Fat Sully’s New York Pizza
3327 E. Colfax Denver, CO 80206