It was starting to get dark on a Sunday evening. Although my long weekend in Los Angeles was coming to an end, there was still time for one last pizza stop. This one was a recommendation by my pizza-loving friend BP who had spent a few years living in the City of Angels. The place was Mulberry Street Pizzeria, a traditional pizza joint that I would soon declare to be a hidden gem among all the glitz and glamor of Beverly Hills.
Started over 20 years ago by a serious-minded pizza guy named Richie Palmer from the Bronx, Mulberry has four area locations: Sherman Oaks, Encino and two here in the Hills. Richie is the real deal and has brought a touch of the Bronx to Southern California. He has crafted a fabulous pizza and also offers an assortment of pasta dishes, salads, heroes and deserts, just like he used to make back home.
My LA running buddy and I found the tiny Mulberry storefront after nailing a parking spot on the busy and bustling Beverly Drive. While not Rodeo Drive, this is still a part of town where you will see more of the 1% than the other 99. The sidewalk storefront was actually just a façade next to the adjoining Pinkberry. The actual pizza joint was a short walk through a narrow passageway.
Inside, the field of red and white checkered table cloths and long pizza counter looked like a Hollywood set transforming me back to the Bronx. The six or so copies of the Sunday New York Post looked like the perfectly placed movie prop.
About the only difference from the real New York were the walls full of pictures and messages from the Hollywood stars who had paid Mulberry a visit. Seeing a signed photo from my fellow Jersey Boy Frankie sealed the deal for me.
While we were the only customers as the weekend was coming to a close, the guys behind the counter were working on a few pies to go. My pal and I each ordered a pair of plain cheese slices at the Beverly Hills premium price of $3.50. We sat at a table in the corner, and were soon summoned after the slices received their quick reheat.
Although there were some assorted slices sitting in a tower on the counter, I didn’t do an inspection. As a result, I was a bit startled when I saw how unusually thin the slices were. Likewise, the tomato sauce looked deep, dark and rich. However, in retrospect, these wound of being my memorable reminders as to how wonderfully delicious Mulberry Street’s pizza is!
Mulberry’s slice was perfectly charred on the bottom and lighted coated with flavorful oil on the top. The cheese tasted wonderful, and the light seasoning on top added the perfect touch. That rich-looking sauce was luscious!
My pair of slices went down so fast, light and easy, that I was soon ordering two more! The lesson therefore being, don’t fool yourself. Just order a whole dang pie rather than by ordering one by the slice the more expensive way like my friend and i did. These slices were like Lays Potato Chips. (Remember their old ad about how you can’t eat just one?)
I must warn you though, its ultra-thin construction makes it a bit different from a perfect classic NY slice like I just had over in Santa Monica at Joe’s Pizza. But, don’t let that scare you away—this is one of the best pizza slices you will ever have. Let’s just call it unique and leave it at that! It’s good and tasty right through to your next slice!
Mulberry Street is a must for any pizza lover visiting the Los Angeles area. I myself can’t wait to go back.
PIZZA SNOB RATING ***** Sets the Standard
Mulberry Street Pizzeria
240 S. Beverly Drive
Beverly Hills, CA 90212